One night last year I was laying in bed awake in the wee hours of the morning. Sleep seemed unobtainable so I was killing time floating around the net. I started searching for the original time crisis arcade game for sale under £500. This is very much an impossible search and one I do infrequently just in case I get lucky.
Ikea anyone?
Then, I suddenly realised a way to make it possible (sort of). Why don't I build my own cabinet!
Over the next few weeks Gemma and I started putting some designs together. I quickly realised I wanted something compact so it could be stored away. I also wanted a big screen because ... well bigger is better isn't it?
The cabinet put together pictured from the back.
I also decided I wanted something that could have four players because, well, I don't really have four friends so I'm not sure about this one. To play Ninja Turtles maybe?
The front view. Notice the forethought that went into the design to cut access for power cords and ventilation.
Suddenly, we had a huge unit on our hands. Four player cabinets are typically 4.5 feet wide and if it has a big screen TV then as a player you need to stand quite a distance back to appreciate it so it was going to have be a good 3 feet deep.
I can't recall what sparked the idea but I do remember it was Gemma's.
"Why don't you just install a projector?"
"By golly," I said, "I do believe she's cracked it".
"Why don't you just install a projector?"
"By golly," I said, "I do believe she's cracked it".
The projector screen size is only limited by the room size, can be played anywhere there's a white wall, and is essentially a wireless screen. This also makes the unit mobile.
Wheels, wheels also make the unit mobile.
I then set about reducing the width by designing a control panel that was based on rounded design instead of the traditional rectangular designs. I also swept the outer control sticks (players 3 and 4) back. This created space for the player while reducing the width of unit. I was able to get the width down to about 4 foot.
The base unit with the control panel on top.
So I had a control panel and no need for a screen. All that was left was a cabinet to house all the different components.This, in principle, was pretty simple. A box with a slightly angled top, three shelves plonked on top of some castors.
I also ensured some airflow to keep the projector and any computer components cool buy cutting some holes in the side panels. I covering the holes with metal speaker grills to make it look pretty.
I painted it white to match the decor of our new home.
And viola, inside I stuck a projector with a Chromecast attachment (forgot to buy a projector with WiFi compatibility), my Wii U, a Steam Link, and a raspberry pi with retropie installed! Power to all units is through a power board stuck with Velcro tabs to the inner wall of the cabinet.The Steam Link is hooked up permanntly to a TP-Link powerline adapter (AV600). I plug this in to the power socket along with the powerboard and I get smooth PC gaming through the projector.
The (nearly) completed cabinet. Still needs doors but the unit is in working condition.
The control panel is on a single piano hinge that allows access to the control stick circuit boards for easy access and to limit the amount of wires in the main cabinet.
From the front. The projector is at just the right height to project above a sofa.
Its taken about 8 months to make from concept to the current product. But given I'm no carpenter I'm really happy with it. It's not fully completed yet. I need to add doors, a small unit to house the circuit boards for players 3 and 4, and trunking for the wires. Oh, and I also need to add a light gun for, you know, playing Time Crisis. My plan is to mount the light sensor that comes with the Wii U in the space above player 1 and 2. My theory is that I should not need to recalibrate the light gun or Wii remotes each time I move the unit.
Under the control panel. It hinges up nicely for easy access to the encoders and wires.
I'm not sure if anyone reading this is actually interested in the components I used but just in case I have provided them below.
Encoder: Zero Delay USB encoder
Gameplay buttons: 30mm Sanwa OBSN (threaded)
Non-gameplay buttons: 24mm Sanwa OBSN (threaded)
Joystick: Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT with octagonal gate.
Gameplay buttons: 30mm Sanwa OBSN (threaded)
Non-gameplay buttons: 24mm Sanwa OBSN (threaded)
Joystick: Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT with octagonal gate.
The unit in action. This is in a normal daytime light, so if the curtains are closed the picture becomes clearer and brighter!
