Friday, March 29, 2013

Interlude #1 - Bomana War Cemetery.

While in PNG Simon and I visited the Bomana War Cemetery, a cemetery dedicated to commonwealth soldiers who died during WWII. Its only a short drive from Port Moresby and it was interesting seeing some of the countryside of PNG. There are nearly 4000 (3 351 Australian) commonwealth soldiers buried there, approximately 700 (240 Australian) of them unidentified, and it is the largest war cemetery for Australians outside of Australia.

View overlooking the cemetery.
The carer of the facility, whose name escapes me at the moment (help me out Simon), was really good. He guided through the cemetery with stories of how many people came be buried there such as the civilians and non-Australians. he also related storied about the only woman buried there and the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels. His knowledge was so vast that I assumed he was a historian. Nope, he is a horticulturalist. The grounds themselves are immaculately kept and s occasionally used by the expats as a picnic area . It's one of the few open spaces it is safe for the white kids to run around.

The groundskeeper - super bloke
There are two Victoria Cross medal winners buried here, both of whom lost their lives performing outstanding acts of valour. Private Bruce Kingsbury saved battalion headquarters and his story can be found here.

Private Bruce Kingsbury- note the engraved Victoria Cross on the headstone.
Corporal John French took a Japanese machine-gun position by himself after ordering his men to safety, this link is his story.

Corporal John French. I linked the stories instead if retelling them so that those not interested in war stories do not have to read them.
I was really fortunate to get to visit this site, not many Australians get this opportunity as Port Moresby is not much of a tourist destination.

Rudolph examines the sculpture of Kokoda trail (are these called sculptures? What are they called?)
Simon and I were even more fortunate to have a personalised guide.

Simon with a view of the memorial dedicated to the bodies that were not found.

Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Slinging' It Singapore Style

I write this from Singapore Airport. Singapore is pretty amazing and I wish I had more time here. It can bed summed up as follows:
1. May also be spelled 'F-O-O-D'
2. HOT
3. Clean. Like really clean. It probably seems more so as I have spent the last week and a half in developing nations.
A tower of beer from a local microbrewery, best known way to cool off.
Here is a quick rundown of the things that I have done:
Dined on a delightful mixture of Thai, Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, and western foods that make up the Singaporean cuisine,
Visited the museum to learnt history,
Visited the Science Centre - we'll call it professional curiosity,
Strolled through Fort Canning Park hunting for 9-pound cannons,
Sipped on Singapore Slings at the Long Bar of Raffles Hotel, the bar that invented the cocktail,
Enjoyed a beer at the Skygarden of Marina Bay Casino (aka cricket stumps),
Browsed though the TinTin shop (more awesome than can be imagined),
Enjoyed a tower of beer at a local microbrewery,
Took a tour through their water recycling plant, and
Took in some live music at the Esplanade.
Tin Tin store in Singapore, this was the entire impetus behind my trip.
I came to Singapore solely to visit Isaac, but got so much more. Even better Louisa lives here too, which I do not know. A few things surprised me. Firstly that every pint I bought was at least $18. They have a huge tax on grog. Similarly, it costs locals $100 just to enter the casino (locals get in for free). Isaac lives with his parents as I gather rent is somewhat difficult and expensive. Lots of people love in public housing which I gathered was housing bought on a 99 year lease from the government. The houses are surprisingly bigger than they look. THEIR SHOWERS DON'T HAVE TAPS. It took me about 5 minutes to figure it out - damned if I was going to ask Isaac's mother how to use the shower wearing nothing but a towel. It was all buttons and dials.
Louisa and I enjoy a Singapore Sling from Raffles Hotel.
Eating out in Singapore is incredibly cheap, you can feed two people for under $15 at these massive food court type areas. Apparently they stay open until all hours of the morning. I ate some awesome food - stingray, Chilli oil crab (a Singaporean specialty), Polish sausages, half boiled eggs. We had chicken rice from a really popular food court joint that we had to wait about 15 minutes to order and pick up food. This was followed by a banana fritter, which I promptly deep throated (picture not available).
Instead here is a picture of me enjoying poo water - water from Singapore's water recycling plant.
Finally, I can tell you now, if I gather wind of a nuclear holocaust I'm heading straight to Singapore. I was wandering through their many shopping malls which are all seem connected sky bridges when I stumbled across their many underpasses. Their shopping centres are like a meerkat community. You could survive for weeks without getting bored. People rabbit on about the Singapore airport, which is indeed amazing, but they have totally missed the vast network of underground shops that seems to crisscross the city district. I was surprised when I found sunlight again.
Cricket stumps even I could hit.
The last few countries, including Australia, all had hot climates. From here I enter China, Mongolia, and Russia - some of the coldest habited places. Kinda makes me wish I was hairier.
Rudolph enjoys the view from the top.

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Public Opinion

Just left the Chinese 'firewall' so I can start posting again. Here is a photo of Rudolph drinking too much in Hohhot, Northern China. Wait, no, due to Apple's inability to create a product that works efficiently with the Internet future updates will be postponed until I can figure out a way around this new problem of putting photos online.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Is Bogainville PNG or Indonesian?

From Port Moresby I returned to Australia for a night before flying to Bali, Indonesia to visit Simon Roos-Freeman in his abroad abode. Brisbane was good, I got to see some of my family including my cousin's wife and their pre-12 month old daughter. Toddlers, it seems, has become theme of trip. Unfortunately for the new additions to the Gatt family hey had to endure the time old tradition of the family of us getting rip-roaring drunk when we get together.

Rudolph leaving Australia not sure when he will return. He is excited about the travels ahead and about finding a climate more reindeer friendly.
Surprisingly, flying to Indo did not raise any moments of regret at leaving Australia, just a sense of excitement with a twist of anxiety at the possibility of someone slipping some contraband into my bodyboard case. The anxiety was exacerbated upon arrival at Indo customs due to the prolific signage warning of the dire consequences of smuggling. Fortunately I do not possess a bodyboard bag and I had a scapereindeer. Getting a lift to Sim's place was somewhat more eventful, with my can driver continually trying to change our agreed upon, even going as far as insisting we had settled upon $100 not 100 000 rupiah (equivalent to $10). He even threatened to drop me off in the middle of the street if I didn't agree. His small talk consisted of making wanking motions while discussing the finer points of the fairer sex. Thanks to Jimmy D for warning me about this!

This is Made (pronounced Ma-de), he is a private driver who lives next door to Sim. We enlisted his services for a day which was much better than using the taxis. Awesome bloke, super funny, and the best driver in Bali.
Sim lives in Sanur, a place which seems overrun with expatriates. His villa is pretty awesome - two bedrooms, each with an ensuite (equipped with bidets), marble floors, pool, and outdoor cooking and dining. I settled in by tucking into a 60 cent lunch and a $2.50 long neck.


The Bali bombing memorial. Sim and I were surprised at the number of victims.
The day I arrived was the beginning of a Bali festival called Nyepi in which massive models of demons are paraded through towns and villages during the evening. They are later burnt and then the entire population of the island lock themselves inside their houses. No one is allowed outside from approximately midnight until 6 am the next day (30 hours). There is to be minimal noise and no lights. The following day the Balinese offer forgiveness to those who have wronged the past year. Sim had arranged for our lockdown to be at his friends place. So we watched the parade of the Ogoh-Ogoh (demons). They truly were monstrous, but phenomenally detailed, apparently the Balinese spend months making them. From there we went to Eric's where we stayed for the next day with his wife, father and two kids (more toddlers, of course).

This was the only decent picture I got of the parade. All the models were of similar awesome detail and consisted of a monster and a combination of the following: some type of transport been ridden dangerously, like a bicycle or foodcart; a hero or heros fighting it off, and/or a damsel in distress. Some of the Ogah-Ogah has large and very visible sexual organs on display. Usually malformed breasts but one saucy demon had a less-than-appetising vagina on show. It was enough to scare you crooked.
It was a delightful 30 hours. We went swimming ate awesome Indian-style 'sloppy joes' (Eric's wife is indian) and denpoo waffles, and drank beer, and vodka. We discussed the finer points of science, philosophy, WWII, and model helicopters.

Rudolph soaks up some rays at Eric's. We spent most of the day in or around the pool. Fate giggled after hearing my brazen claim about rarely burning.
At night the stars were out in force, their gentle glow no longer drowned out by Balinese lights. By the time our enforced lockdown I was quite refreshed and ready for my last full day in Indonesia. Sim, my host, did not disappoint.

Any day that ends with photo like this could never be disappointing.
The first order of business was transport, we were going to drink so we were not driving ourselves. Fortunately, Made was available and for a mere $50 we had a chauffeur for the day. For some reason an Indian couple who had booked his services decided to go with another driver. Their loss was our gain and we quickly snapped him and his car.

Komodo Dragons! Hunting styles include waiting for tourists to drop cameras into their enclosure and mauling them when they retrieve it and waiting for James Bond to throw villains in their general direction.
We visited a bird and reptile park that had a bird of prey show, Komodo dragons, and crocs. We visiting the site of the Bali bombing and strolled across a beach. We ate Italian food Bali-style at a warung (a cross between a buffet and a sushi train), smashed some late night pizza and gelato, and most importantly, enjoyed some cocktails at beach bar while watching the sunset. Sim - consider me wooed.

The photo describes the evening better than I ever could. Potato Head, while been a pricey (comparatively) venue, is worth every penny
For anyone following closely you may have realised that thus far I had only eaten one local meal (multiple Indian and Italian, however) but was yet to try the local cuisine of nasi goreng. This travesty could not stand and my final meal, breakfast on the day I left was the signature fried rice dish of Indonesia.

This was enjoyed with a fresh lime and orange juice. The juice was so awesome I had two.
Bali is great, but it would be awesome if it was not packed full of Aussie bogans. The vibe of the touristy areas was similar to that of a Saturday night after the footy.

Rudolph farewells Bali in the international airport.

Monday, March 11, 2013

The KingDom in Port Moresby; Papua New Guinea

The first leg of my trip was Port Moresby (POM) in Papua New Guinea. Simon and Brooke King moved there for a posting with AusAid 6 months ago and I thought I should take this opportunity to visit POM. POM is not a particularly safe place, and two days before I left I was introduced to the dangers via an email from Brooke detailing what to do in case of armed carjackings and warning me not to leave the airport without Brooke. She picked me up with a security escort because of the risk in that area.
Here is Rudolph, my mascot for the journey, on the balcony at the KingDom overlooking Port Moresby.
They live in a compound for Australians working at the High Commission. Thick high walls topped with razor wire and electric fencing surrounds their compound and there is 24 hour security including a guard dog. This is not unusual in POM. All of the shopping areas were walled like this as were the private residences owned by the affluent members of society. Everyone else had to fit large families into quite ramshackle shacks. Fortunately they live up high so there is still an awesome view. They also have access to a pool, tennis and squash courts, a gym, and cheap grog.
A hot chocolate at the Yacht Club while Owen and Levi play at playgroup.
My gracious hosts showed me the city. We visited the Yacht club, a shopping malls (complete with private security and metal detectors), and the Australian War Cemetery dedicated to the soldiers killed in PNG in WWII. There were plans for a trip to the beach but the weather didn't agree. Instead we cooked up some crab and lobster. Awesome.
The War Cemetary, if memory serves me correctly there are about 4000 soldiers buried here, including two recipients of the Victoria Cross.
The rest of my time was taken up playing with Owen and Levi, shooting zombies, and losing horribly to Simon in AFL (PS3) and tennis (real).
Dinner looking a little crabby. However, her angry face is not as good as Levi's.
It was an amazing trip and I was disappointed to leave - but there are more adventures to come. Indonesia, here I come.
The Kings (and Rudolph)

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Pack N Go

Barring the clothes on my back here is everything I own.