Part 4: Halong Bay

Upon arrival in Hanoi from Sapa I proceeded to wait around at the travel agent by myself for three hours as I waited for my next tour to start. I distinctly remember the kindness of the local next to me as he offered my a seat on which to relax, and my own suspicions that the second my buttocks rested on the hard plastic he would jump up shouting, "ten dolla, ten dolla!"

Soon I found myself seated on a mini bus with another Spanish couple, another Israeli couple, a couple fomr North Ireland, 4 somewhat aloof Irish girls (damn that is a comical accent) and one Frenchman, Aurelian. Aurelian is a special man. In the space of a weekend he managed to wipe away 12 years of racial antipathy.

I'm with a Frenchman! Who would have guessed?

Although quiet at first I soon found he was one of the most intelligent men I have ever met (very comfortable discussing Quantum Physcis with me in English - and he is a textile merchant hence no real science eductaion) who has a penchant for chillis that exceeds my own. Once again I was passed from one tour group to another over the three day tour but this time I was accompanied by my new friend from gay Paris (I mean that in the fun sense).

Halong Bay is a beautiful water inlet dotted with magnificant limestone isles, with huge caves filled by wacky rock formations.

A small taste of Halong Bay. Don't worry, due to my total lack of camera battery these are the only photos you'll see

World Heritage Listed, it is also currently ranked as # 2 in the 'New7wonders of nature" (http://www.new7wonders.com/classic/en/index/), so I can guarrantee no words I use can really describe what I saw. I will also note that luck was on my side in that the sun was shining. This apparently never happens in Halong Bay - don't be fooled by postcards.

Anyway the tour really stated when our group climbedthrough a mess of junks to our floating home for the night. The morning was filled with visiting caves and the afternoon was filled sunbathing/reading, eating awesome food and jumping from the roof of the junk into the apprently jellyfish infested waters.

This bay is littered with junk!

No one really wanted to jump, and as most people know I'm not a water person. However Australia had to represent so I donned my swimmers and jump I did. Everyone was really excited and pointed at me yelling. I smiled and waved whilst treading water. One of our Vietnmese hosts appeared a the side of the boat with a ladder, "hi, just swim over there for a second," he calmly says pointing away from the boat. I dutifully follow is instruction, luxuriating in the warm tropical waters. Soon the Irishman joins me in the water a massive grin on his face as he proceeds to explain how close the massive jellyfish was to me...until I moved. No one else joined us in the water. That night we drank cheap cocktails on the roof until midnight then everyone piked. The entire time our hosts amicably prepared our drinks when we woke them up. Funny work culture the Vietnamese have.

A gorgeous section of the cave system we toured. Photos thanks to Charlotte of Ireland.

The next day Aurelain and I changed tour groups and joined one that was much more exciting, their were Chilieans, Belgians, an American, and an Australian - Kylie. We became instant best friends. She lives in Sydney and does stuff. Okay so we weren't best friends. In this group we hiked up a huge mountain which, thanks to my recent training, was a piece of piss. I struggled a bit more climbing to the top of the lookout tower as I usually get a funny dizzy feeling on unstable, metal grated, and incredibly high platforms.

This is really, really high...

But the vista was nothing short of spectacular. On the way down from the mountain I came across the most incredibly hot English lady I've ever met (sorry midwives). Funnliy enough we randomly cross paths a few more times. this day was finished by visting monkey island, where there are monkeys (they are thieves beware). We swam, and played and threw our tourguide in the water.

...and the stairs and platform were none to steady. A part of the floor was completly removable.

The evening/night the followed was one of the best I ever had. First I left the hotel for a walk. I funny veitnamese rode past me on his bike and offered to cut my hair. I mentally offered to perform dental surgery with fist. However, he jumped off his bike at one of the many streetside barber chairs and than offered to shave me. This I agreed to after haggling over the price (about $3). he than pulls out a razor, which placed at my neck. I begin to wonder of I should have been paid a bit more...

This is what I though about as a razor scraped over my jugular

Then I watched some local volleyball whilst drinking beer so warm it needed ice - the lady serving me beer had to run to find me some from another vendor. This was followed by dinnerm turns out the English girl was eating with us, and then drinks. Lots of drinks. We sang karoake, danced and generally made fools out of ourselves. the night ended with Aurelain, Kylie and me talking philosophy and physics.

Before discussing indepth answers to life and the universe I recommend going for a little paddle in the sun. Just as we left our junk I heard my name yelled across the bay. Waving frantically on another junk were my two spanish friends form Sapa: Victor and Gloria.

The next day was a bus ride back to Hanoi. I jumped off the bus in early afternoon and started searching for accomodation with a clear price in mind. I found a nice place and started to haggle. Unfortunately just on cue it started to rain. I don't mean a pleasant drizzle falling from the sky, I'm talking about the heaven's opening up in a deluge as armegeddon strikes in liquid form. The owner smiled politely, I grin ruefully. "$14 a night sounds great."